HOW TO DO IT

1. Put the yoghurt, chilli flakes, ginger, chilli powder, turmeric, cardamom, bay leaves and cinnamon into a bowl. Add the meat and move it around to make sure it’s well coated (by far the best way to do this is by hand, wearing gloves – latex, not the woolly king – as turmeric can really get stuck under your fingernails). Leave to marinate for as long as you can, preferably overnight.

2. Next day, heat the oil over a medium heat in a large heavy-based pan and fry the mustard seeds until they begin to pop.

3. Add the chopped onion and stir for a couple of minutes.

4. Tip in the meat with its marinade and cook on all sides for 5-10 minutes in total.

5. Add the ground almonds and stir well until all the meat is coated in the almonds.

6. Pour in enough stock just to cover the meat, season with salt and masses of pepper and bring to a slow simmer.

7. Simmer for around 1 hour 30 minutes with the lid on, giving it regular stirs making sure it’s not sticking on the bottom (which the almonds have a tendency to do) until the lamb is through the tough, teenage stage and beginning to soften (quite along time if you opted for mutton).

8. Only then add the diced pumpkin and the pepper, and push them all under the surface of the liquid (if this is physically impossible due to the lack of liquid then add enough just to cover).

9. Cook for about 20-30 minutes longer, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan – keep the lid off and leave it bubbling away nicely – until the pumpkin is just beginning to lose its shape and the meat is good and tender.

10. Turn off the heat, add the tomatoes and peas and stir so they are all submerged, then put the lid back on and leave for 10 minutes for them to soften up.

11. Check the seasoning, give it a last good vigorous stir to smash up the tomatoes a bit and then serve with rice, yoghurt and a handful of coriander on top. Would be nice with a scattering of deep-fried crispy shallots on top, just to really blow the no-onion thing.